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10. January 2003 10:53
by Rene Pallesen
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Mum and Dad in Sydney 2003

10. January 2003 10:53 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

mum and dad in sydney


My mum and dad spent some time in Sydney over christmas and New Year.

While they were here I raught my dad how to absail.



And for Christmas I gave my parents some tickets for the Sydney Harbour bridge walk (they gave Arumi a ticket too).

1. November 2002 11:19
by Rene Pallesen
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My brothers funeral

1. November 2002 11:19 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

my brothers funeral


My brother passed away in the end of 2002. He had been suffering badly from his disease for almost a decade and eventually it got the better of him.

I still miss him a lot even though we weren't close when he was alive....but I still feel him close to me to this day!



I still light a candle for him once in a while.



His two biggest wishes in life was to become a professional tennis player...he was a pretty damn good player and I never played against him because I didn't have a chance.



His second biggest wish was to get himself a girlfriend. This is one of the last photos that was taken of him.



I still blame the psychiatric system in Denmark for what happened. They were too focused on treating his disease with medication and never paid any attention on teaching him to live with his disease and provide quality in life.


I still love him very much and I really miss him. I also regret that I wasn't there more for him.



He always looked after me and he has never hurt anyone.





This is the last family photo that was taken.



I would appreciate if you click here to see some of the photos from my brothers life: May he not be forgotten

26. October 2002 11:09
by Rene Pallesen
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My Memories of Claus . . .

26. October 2002 11:09 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

my memories of claus


Amstmester - Claus Pallesen (newspaper article)Claus at tennis practice
Before Claus became ill, he was a rising star in the world of tennis. He was featured in the local newspaper as Amtsmester - he came first in the local "Amst" - level similar to state-level.
Claus the Skipper!Claus sunbaking
Claus and Far!

Claus and MorTrip to Karrebæksminde, during René's and Arumi's visit to Denmark (June 2002)
Claus loved being out in the wind and the sun. He was also prone to seasickness.
Claus & Mor at Freshwater BayEating oysters in SydneyClaus with Anne
At one of beaches in SydneyAt my old apartment in Narrabeen, Sydney
Claus and my family came to visit me in Australia in 1999. I think he liked it here - warmer winters and friendly people. I really like the top middle photo, of Claus eating oysters. He looked very happy. They did a lot of sightseeing here, and even visited my apartment on Narrabeen beach.
Young Claus with MorAt airport - when René and Arumi leave Denmark
Claus in MorroccoClaus in Morrocco
In North SjællandRené & Claus at Sonja's 60th birthday celebrations
In Tenerife
blue line
The following are the last photos that were taken of Claus, on one of our sailing trips.
Alle i arbejdeLastekajen
Lasten vokserClaus arbejder
Kurt arbejderLasten klar
KurtBirthe



26. October 2002 11:08
by Rene Pallesen
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My Dear Big Brother...

26. October 2002 11:08 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

my dear big brother

My brother had schizophrenia, and he passed away not long after his 33rd birthday.

I love my brother, and I regret not telling him this. My girlfriend tells me that Claus knew I loved him.
I am not convinced of this, so I wrote him a letter, in the hope that he will read this, wherever he is.

There is so much I wanted to say to him.

I want to remember him when he was not sick, when he was happy, and when I was last in Denmark in June 2002. I want to remember him, as you will see him in these photos.
blue line
Claus and I wearing Christmas hats



Claus' Christening



The Family



Big Brother


26. October 2002 10:35
by Rene Pallesen
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My Big Brother

26. October 2002 10:35 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

my big brother
My Big Brother . . .

Sharing toysOur favourite dog
Winter-timeOur first skiisChristmas together
Christmas ElvesAlways together
Friends in KenyaIn school uniform, in KenyaSitting with our cousins



Created: 8 Oct 2002 Last Updated: 24 Oct 2002

10. June 2002 11:47
by Rene Pallesen
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Singapore

10. June 2002 11:47 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

singapore


On the way back from Denmark we made a stopover in Singapore to have a look as well as do some shopping.

Here a photo from Little India in Singapore.

4. June 2002 11:36
by Rene Pallesen
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My mums birthday

4. June 2002 11:36 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

my mums birthday


We surprised my Mum by turning up in Denmark before her 60th Birthday.

She had a big party where a lot of her friends and family turned up.

Click here to see more photos

While we were there we also got to visit some of my friends and family as well as do a bit of Sightseeing in Copenhagen and Legoland. Click here to see more photos from: Mums 60th Birthday/Slideshow

29. March 2002 02:52
by Rene Pallesen
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Drive in Australia

29. March 2002 02:52 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

drive in australia


Over the Christmas holidays we went for a drive through some of the most scenic parts of Australia.

First we drive down to Melbourne and then along the Great Ocean Road to Adelaide.

Click here to see more photos

The sunsets were spectacular.

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We then continued up to the Flinders Ranges and along the way had a look at cave paintings.

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In Broken hill we went down into the old Daydream silvermine.

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We also had a look at some of the Desert Sculptures

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Along the way we saw some Australian Wildlife. Here a wombat.

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And here a possum.

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Lots of Koalas

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And here one very angry Lizard.

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And of course some Emus.

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We were camping along the way.

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Click here to see more photos from Driving in Australia / Slideshow
Perfect Moments Photography | A Rene Pallesen Journal

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14. November 2004 01:52
by Rene Pallesen
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Kom Ombo's Temple - Dedicated to Horus & Sobek, the Crocodile God

14. November 2004 01:52 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

kom ombo s temple dedicated to horus sobek the crocodile god

14. November 2004 01:49
by Rene Pallesen
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Karnak - "the Most Perfect of Places" - Part 4

14. November 2004 01:49 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

karnak the most perfect of places part 4

14. November 2004 01:49
by Rene Pallesen
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Karnak - "the Most Perfect of Places" - Part 3

14. November 2004 01:49 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

karnak the most perfect of places part 3

14. November 2004 01:47
by Rene Pallesen
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Karnak - "the Most Perfect of Places" - Part 2

14. November 2004 01:47 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

karnak the most perfect of places part 2

14. November 2004 01:45
by Rene Pallesen
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Temple of Horus - the Most Complete of Its Kind Part 4

14. November 2004 01:45 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

temple of horus the most complete of its kind part 4



Perfect Moments Photography | A Rene Pallesen Journal

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14. November 2004 01:45
by Rene Pallesen
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Karnak - "the Most Perfect of Places" - Part 1

14. November 2004 01:45 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

karnak the most perfect of places part 1

14. November 2004 01:44
by Rene Pallesen
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Temple of Horus - the Most Complete of Its Kind Part 3

14. November 2004 01:44 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

temple of horus the most complete of its kind part 3


14. November 2004 01:40
by Rene Pallesen
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Temple of Horus - the Most Complete of Its Kind Part 2

14. November 2004 01:40 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

temple of horus the most complete of its kind part 2


14. November 2004 01:39
by Rene Pallesen
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Temple of Horus - the Most Complete of Its Kind Part 1

14. November 2004 01:39 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

temple of horus the most complete of its kind part 1

14. November 2004 01:38
by Rene Pallesen
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Horses

14. November 2004 01:38 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

horses

14. November 2004 01:37
by Rene Pallesen
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Temple of Hatshepsut - Egypt's Only Female Pharaoh Part 2

14. November 2004 01:37 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

temple of hatshepsut egypt s only female pharaoh part 2

14. November 2004 01:36
by Rene Pallesen
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Temple of Hatshepsut - Egypt's Only Female Pharaoh

14. November 2004 01:36 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

temple of hatshepsut egypt s only female pharaoh

14. November 2004 01:07
by Rene Pallesen
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Bedstemor's 85th Birthday Fest - Part 3

14. November 2004 01:07 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

bedstemor s 85th birthday fest part 3

14. November 2004 01:01
by Rene Pallesen
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Bedstemor's 85th Birthday Fest - Part 2

14. November 2004 01:01 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

bedstemor s 85th birthday fest part 2
Perfect Moments Photography | A Rene Pallesen Journal

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13. May 2010 10:54
by Rene Pallesen
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Coppelia

13. May 2010 10:54 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

coppelia


Last night we went to the Sydney Opera House to see the ballet Coppelia with The Australian Ballet.

It may be the last time for a while that Kim and I get the chance to go and see a performance together for a while.



It was a great show and I can highly recommend it...the story is nicer and easier to follow than The Nutcracker. Coppelia herself doesn't dance much (she is a doll), the story line if mainly centered around the other characters in the story...no one dies (come on...it is not an opera). It is just a nice love story where the right people get eachother in the end.



3. May 2010 09:52
by Rene Pallesen
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Chris & Yvonne's wedding

3. May 2010 09:52 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

chris yvonne s wedding


Yesterday we went to Chris and Yvonnes wedding. The wedding itself was a traditional catholic wedding held in one of the churches in North Sydney.




Kim was having a bit of a cold so to save herself (and the baby) we decided that I'd go to the wedding ceremony alone representing both of us. Chris asked me if I'd video the ceremony using his new camera...I hope it turned out alright as I'm not all that familiar with taking video. I did manage to take a couple of photos (using my spare hand) during the ceremony.




Later in the evening the reception was held at Wolfies at Circular Quay at the Rocks in Sydney. After resting in the morning Kim was fortunately able to join me at the reception. It was a really nice evening and we got a change to meet some of their friends who'd flown in from the US.






During the evening the photographers did a slideshow with some of the highlights from the wedding.






Needless to say that I was pretty hung over the next morning. I didn't take a lot of photos, but above you see a couple of the ones I did take.

27. April 2010 11:17
by Rene Pallesen
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Car Fun - Take 2

27. April 2010 11:17 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

car fun take 2


I borrowed some more toy cars from my nephews (A bit more willing this time). This time I wanted to do the shoot entirely using light painting. All the following photos are created using a single LED torch with CTO and blue flash gels in front of it. No photoshopping has been done to any of the photos.

They have all been shot at 15 seconds @ f22. The base is a glass chopping board (the writing on the board shines through in a couple of places).








27. April 2010 07:32
by Rene Pallesen
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Hunter Valley 2010

27. April 2010 07:32 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

hunter valley 2010


This long Anzac weekend we drove up to Hunter Valley with a couple of friends.

Meeting up there we planned what wineries we were going to. Sasha had a couple in mind which was perfect as they were some Kim and I had never been been to before.

The first place we stopped was Petersons...Joanne wanted to pick up some pink bubbly stuff (pink champagne). They have some wines there without preservatives which are really nice.



On the way from one of the other places we drove past a new place called Noonji...sounded japanese and it was a new one, so we had to have a look at what they were doing.



They had just opened up for tasting recently and as soon as we walked through the door we could tell that this husband and wife were doing things differently. We were welcomed and were told that this was table tasting, so we all sat down at the table.



This was really good since it enabled us to taste five different vintages simultaneously (In other places you taste one vintage at a time). The prices were reasonable and they had a pretty good discount if you bought a case, so Kim and I ended up buying two cases of wine from here.



After this we did some more sightseeing and tasting before we drove back to sydney.





On the way back we stopped at a petrol station and someone has this cool car parked there.

26. April 2010 10:05
by Rene Pallesen
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Wingello

26. April 2010 10:05 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

wingello


On Anzac day I went climbing with Andy and Dan at a new place called Wingello that we'd never been to before.

Wingello is about two hours south of sydney towards Canberra. It is mostly sports climbing on ring bolts. This means that instead of placing protection you can clip pre-placed bolts.

Click here for more climbing photos

Click here for more climbing photos

My finger is still injured so I am in reality unable to climb (pst...I did clean a climb on top rope but dont tell anyone).

This meant that I spent most of the day belaying the others and taking some photos. On one of the easier scrambles I got to the top so that I could take some photos from the top. It is the first time I have tried to really try and take photos from the top and it was difficult. A lot of the photos were slightly blurred because it was hard to keep the lens steady in the available light when zooming in). Here are some of the photos from this climb that did turn out alright.

Click here for more climbing photos Click here for more climbing photos

Click here for more climbing photos Click here for more climbing photos


Also being up high means that I could provide Dan with some instructions cleaning the anchor system. For his first try it wasn't pretty and he got the ropes in a big tangle.

Click here for more climbing photos

Click here for more climbing photos


Eventually we got it sorted so that he could get down safely....but more practice is needed.

After this we went further along the wall to so some easy/moderate climbs (16/17s). One one of the climbs Andy stuck his hand into a hole with a snake skin in it...this is his second snake incident. After this he refused to even get close to the hole (fair enough). He is now on the leader board 2:1...my incident was a brown snake crawling across my feet while belaying him years ago.

Click here for more climbing photos Click here for more climbing photos


Dan managed to also lead this climb which he was absolutely stoked about.


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Click here for more climbing photos Click here for more climbing photos


We finished the climb just before the sun set and we managed to get out before just in time. The climb out was interesting at the easiest route is through this narrow and steep gully with fixed ropes and ladders (The fact that Dan was carrying his makeup bag and a 5 litre bottle of water didn't make it easier).

Click here for more climbing photos


21. April 2010 08:59
by Rene Pallesen
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My nephews Porche Carrera GT

21. April 2010 08:59 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

my nephews porche carrera gt


Today I borrowed a couple of Toy cars from my nephew Ethan. I had to promise that I'd bring them back tomorrow.

I wanted to have a play with using a single bare flash right above the car as a softbox. Because the flash is hanging right above the car just outside view) it has been dialed all the way back to 1/128th power (shooting at f/32, iso 200 @ 1/250) or I'd use detail. On the side just outside view I put a piece of white paper to reflect a little light onto the side of the car. The reflective surface is a glass chopping board from the kitchen.


After a while I started also using a flash on the background using different gels. I found that orange and blue gels were the nicest. The Blue as a good contrast to the yello car. With the orange gel I could create a sunset type light by letting the light fall off quickly on the wall. The background if a white wall (except for the textured background which is a black backdrop).


None of the photos below have had any photoshopping done to them (otherwise I would have removed those scratches on the windshield).

Click here for original


Click here for original

Click here for original

Click here for original

Click here for original


17. April 2010 10:30
by Rene Pallesen
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Flash balancing fun

17. April 2010 10:30 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

flash balancing exercise


Kim was kind enough to let me take some photos of her. I have been studying some flash photography videos and articles and wanted to have a play with multiple flashes around dusk. The trick is to balance the ambient light with the light filled from the flash...especially tricky as the light constantly changes during the last 30 minutes of the day.


So far I only have two wireless flash triggers to was was somewhat limited (ideally I would like to have three triggers).



It was really good to be able to do some experimenting. For these photos I used one flash 45 degrees to the back and another 45 degrees in front. On the back I am using a CTO gel. In the beginning I was using one on the front one as well, but when I got home to look at the photos I could see that it was too warm (Lesson learnt that I should use the warm gels on the back). On the photos here there is no gel on the front flash only on the back.


I would have liked to stay just a bit longer to play, but kim was getting a bit cold.


With a more time I would have been able to enhance some of the zoom effects as seen in this photo:



Definitely a trick I'll be using in the future...makes for some cool effects. At lot of the photos are actually quite nice, but the two above are my preferred ones.




17. April 2010 10:23
by Rene Pallesen
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Week 31, not long to go

17. April 2010 10:23 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

week 31 not long to go


It is now week 31, so only 9-10 weeks until baby is due to arrive.

Kim is getting a fair bit bigger and the baby is now very active. So far things looks good although Kim is worried that the boy will be a shortie like mummy.


Click here to get to showcases


11. April 2010 09:44
by Rene Pallesen
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Water fun

11. April 2010 09:44 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

water fun





Water fun

I read this article about how to take water photos in an easy way. The photos is taken using a bare flash firing onto a white background at 1/8th power. The blue colour is because I (on purpose) changed the white balance of the camera to Tungsten.

I only had a shallow painting tray at my disposal. This paint residue in the bottom of the tray creates the pattern in the photo. I also couldn't get a nice formed drop pattern forming due to the drops hitting the bottom of the shallow tray unevenly.

Lessons for next time: Use a deeper tray. Make it black so that no other colours penetrate and make dure the water can reach the edge of the tray. Next time I try I will use one of the large scanpans we have...I think it will be better suited.

Click here for the original large size

6. April 2010 12:19
by Rene Pallesen
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Tasmania - Easter 2010

6. April 2010 12:19 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

tasmania easter 2010


During the Easter Break Kim and I made a trip to Tasmania. This was to be our last holiday together before the baby arrives.

Tasmania is an island south of Australia about 1.5 times larger than Denmark. The east coast is lightly populated and the west coast is mainly national parks and forests.

We had rented a car to make it easier for us to get around and the first place we headed to was Cradle Mountains national park. This is probably one of the most iconic places in Tasmania and every Australian has seen the pictures of the mountain itself.

Click here for more photos

The drive there was full of contrast. There has always been of criticism of the lumber industries in Tasmania and when you see the methods they use to cut down trees then it is easy to see why. They don't do selective cutting, they instead pretty much bulldoze whole areas which then take many decades to recover.

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One of the days there we did a number of walks within the park and around the lakes. Kim is 7 months pregnant and did really well although walking a bit slower than normal.

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We also did some walks to some of the lookouts and waterfalls in the park.

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I did have some time to experiment with some photos along the way.

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Click here for more photos

Click here for more photos


I really wanted to see some of the wildlife in the park, but unfortunately most of the animals are nocturnal (only out at night). The park had a bus going through the park at night time costing $50 for the two of us. We spoke to the driver and he said that we would not be able to leave the bus at any time. I really wanted to be able to get off the bus at take some wildlife photos so we instead decided to drive our rental car through the park late at night. We wouldn't have the luxury of the nighttime lights and the local knowledge of where to spot certain animals but we thought that the bus would be staying on the same road as we did anyhow.

It turned out to be a really good idea. We managed to spot lots of Possums, Wallaby's (a small Kangaroo) and Wombats. We even spotted Quolls and a Tasmanian Devil. May has later told me that the frog in the photo is a 'Southern Brown Tree Frog' and that she keeps one of them as a pet.


Below is photos of the animals we spotted:

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(The closeup photos of the Tasmanian devil and the Quoll I've borrowed, but the rest are my own photos.)

After this we drove to Freycinet national park on the east coast. Along the way we stopped at a few scenic spots and wineries. One of the places we stopped was a place called Devils Gullet. It would have been really spectacular had it not been for the dense fog.


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It was a fairly long drive getting there and I was pretty buggered by the time we arrived to the B&B after driving most of the day with just a few stops on the way to rest and take photos.

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Click here for more photos

Click here for more photos


The sun started to set and I rushed Kim down to the beach in from of the place we were staying to take some portraits using some creative lighting. She wasn't too keen as the wind was a bit cold and we missed the actual sunset by just a couple of minutes. I did however manage to take a couple of photos of her.

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In the evening we went to a very nice restaurant called 'The edge' very close to the B&B. This turned out to the be highlight in terms of meals during the trip. It was very nice. On the way to the restaurant we spotted a Tasmanian owl and afterwards we did a drive through the national park spotting more Quolls, Possums and Wallabies.


The next day we decided to do a number of other walks. The first one of the day included climbing up to the top of this saddle between two mountain tops to get a magnificent view of Wineglass Bay. The climb itself was spectacular in itself as the mountains are formed by this pink coloured granite (I was looking for climbing routes, but most of the granite looked completely barren of any holds...some lunatic would probably come and prove otherwise).

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Along the trail we we spotted a baby Black snake, a couple of Lizards and birds.

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We also made a drive up to 'Friendly Beach' where we took a lot of photos. This beach was mostly deserted apart from a couple of walkers and surfers.

Perfect Moments Photography | A Rene Pallesen Journal

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14. November 2004 11:06
by Rene Pallesen
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Pyramid of Cheops

14. November 2004 11:06 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

pyramid of cheops


The largest pyramids were built by Khafre (Cheops) and his son Kefren (Chephren).
Khafre's pyramid stood 147 metres tall. Each side was 230 metres (with only 0.2% margin error - can you believe that?)


René's mum stands at the foot of Kefren's pyramid.
It is almost a one-kilometre walk around the whole pyramid.


It is taller than Kefren's pyramid but does not look so as it sits on lower ground.
It is estimated that something like 2.3 million blocks were used to build the pyramid.
Right: There once lay a solar-boat. Khafre's mummy was placed into this boat as the ancient Egyptians believed the pharaoh sailed to the after-life.
The boat is now housed in a building next to the pyramid.



Created: Dec 2004Last Updated: 24-Jan-2005

14. November 2004 11:05
by Rene Pallesen
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Cairo's Hotel Pyramisa Coffee-shop

14. November 2004 11:05 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

cairo s hotel pyramisa coffee shop






Whilst we were waiting to check-in, the family decided to get something to eat as we had not eaten anything since breakfast on the plane.




Created: Dec 2004Last Updated: 24-Jan-2005

14. November 2004 11:04
by Rene Pallesen
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Bedstemor's 85 års fødselsdag ( 13 - 20 Nov 2004 )b

14. November 2004 11:04 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

bedstemor s 85 rs f dselsdag 13 20 nov 2004 b
Bedstemor's 85 års fødselsdag ( 13 - 20 Nov 2004 )
Oversættelse Freddy Pallesen © 2004



Det gamle Ægyptens historier og legender har længe markeret sig gennem film som "Kleopatra", "Mumien" og begejstret os kvinder med Omar Sharifs optræden i "Lawrence of Arabia" og "Doctor Zhivago og senere i tegnefilm som "The Prince of Egypt". Der er en vis mystik omkring mellemøsten skildret for os i en meget ung alder, når vi hørte godnathistorier som "Ali Baba og de 40 røvere" eller "Sinbad Søfareren" - de fleste af os har en drøm om at se pyramiderne.

Jeg var meget heldig at få muligheden for 20 år siden sammen med mine forældre at komme til Ægypten, men som 10 årig er der ikke så meget et barn kan huske. Men dette år samles Familien Pallesen igen engang for "Matriarkens" 85 års fødselsdag. Det er tradition for familien at samles og rejse til et eksotisk land - tidligere har det været Tunesien, Marokko, Tyrkiet og Gambia - og nu for Bedstemors ønske om at se Ægyptens pyramider, som hendes mand så for 50 år siden.

Bedstemors tre børn, seks børnebørn (Nikolai kunne ikke komme med), fire oldebørn og respektive ægtefæller, alle tog sammen til det magiske Ægypten. Det er efterår med varme dage og kølige nætter - en kontrast til den kommende vinter i Danmark.




Lørdag 13. November 2004
Afrejse til Ægypten

Vores familie måtte af sted kl. 3.30 for at nå flyet kl. 6.55; 4½ time senere ankom vi til Cairo lufthavn. Jeg har en svag hukommelse om en meget varm lufthavn med komplet kaos, med mennesker, der skubber for at få deres kufferter igennem, råbende gennem en masse larm. Nu fandt vi en næsten ren og ikke tætpakket lufthavn.Vi mødte AP-Travels repræsentant, som tog os til Hotel Pyramissa, hvor vi tilsyneladende blev glemt i Pianobaren, til en af os fik den lyse ide, at bede om vores værelsesnøgler.Pallesen familie venter på værelser

Vores familie deltes om en toværelses suite med et stort fællesrum. Vores første eftermiddag blev brugt til en spadseretur rundt i kvarteret for evt. at finde et sted for familien at spise. Vores hotel lå på den anden side af floden i forhold til centrum, så der var ikke meget at se på sammen med, at mange butikker var lukket p.g.a. Ramadanen, den Islamiske fasteperiode fra daggry til solnedgang. Søndag var sidste dag i Ramadanen, så mange var i gang med at forberede den sidste faste.

Sluttelig spiste familien til aften i hotellets "Orientel" restaurant i Ægyptisk stil. Vi regnede med at få ordentlig Ægyptisk mad, men blev skuffede over at få lunkent mad. Risen var meget tør, lammekødet var meget småt og maden var en blandet fornøjelse. Til vores overraskelse, efter vores kommentarer, fik vi serveret ekstra tallerkner med lokal Ægyptisk frugt så som friske dadler og duava. Til vores morskab smagte alle Ægyptiske vine ens, uanset mærke. Der var masser af Ægyptisk øl og selvfølgelig levede danskerne op til deres drikkeevner og Bedstemor gav maden til alle.



Søndag 14. november 2004

Første nat sov vi ikke så godt - at sove i en fremmed seng kombineret med koranbøn fra en nærliggende moske gav os ikke ligefrem en fredfyldt søvn. Imidlertid var vi alle tidlig oppe for at mødes i Bedstemors værelse for at overraske hende med danske fødselsdagssange til flimmer med danske flag og små gaver. Denne familie overrasker fødselaren og alle synger unisont denne meget søde fødselsdagssang.

Citadellet Muhammad Ali Moskeen

Udsigten fra CitadelletVores første besøg gjaldt Citadellet. Det er byens fort og husede engang den kongelige familie og skønt det meste af komplekset er åben for besøgende, besidder militæret stadig en del, som er lukket område. Det tager en halv dag at komme gennem hele Citadellet, hvilket vi ikke havde mulighed for. I stedet tilbragte vi vores tid i Muhammed Ali moskeen.

<== Der er en fantastisk panorama over byen fra den Vestlige terrasse - fantastisk at Cairo ikke et bygget af ens mudderfarvede stenbygninger. Det mest bemærkelsesværdige ved Cairo er imidlertid mangelen på farver og farverne stemmer overens med ørkenens farver.

Mohammed Ali MosqueVores guide Adam/Mohammed gav os en ringe indsigt i funktionen eller historien af Citadellet, og i stedet pladserede gruppen i hjørnet i hjørnet af Muhammed Ali moskeen som en gruppe skolebørn, og gav en lektion om Islamisk lov og sædvane.

Da René vovede sig til at spørge om mere om Citadellet, blev han skældt ud for at afbryde og fik besked på at lytte. Vi fik aldrig muligheden for at finde 7-tallet Napoleons tropper hade malet over port for at undgå de uvante arabiske navne, eller det halvrunde tårn, da vores guide simpelthen ikke vidste, hvor de var.

Ind i Mohammed Ali Mosque




I den tid havde jeg muligheden for at spadsere lidt for mig selv og gå i moskeens skønne alabaster arkader. Den himmelhvælvede centrale bederum var et glimmer af hundrede af lys, der hang i koncentriske cirkler. På loftet var der arabiske inskriptioner i guld. Kvinder skulle være anstændig klædt og kunne ikke bære ærmeløse trøjer eller korte shorts eller skørter. I et hjørne af rummet lå sarkofaget med Muhhamed Ali - grundlægger af moskeen og Albanisk handelsmand, grundlægger af dynastiet, som herskede til revolutionen i 1952.

Cairo Ægyptisk Museet

Jeg huske turen rundt i dette museum, hvor jeg kiggede ind i smudsige glas montre og stirrede på de rynkede ansigter af nogle engang kendte faroer som Ramses II og undrede mig over, om disse gamle Ægyptere var giganter i deres store kister.
20 år senere var det næsten umuligt at skubbe sig gennem mængderne af turister - kun nyttigt fordi deres guider gav flere informationer end vores. Med kun to timer var det umulig at se hele museet og slet ikke de kongelige mumier.
Museet fejrede sit hundred år med en speciel udstilling omkring TutAnkhAmun - det mest berømte fund. Med rejseguiden i hånden "aaaede" og "åååede" vi over guldskattene fundet i hans grav - en guldtrone med den berømte scene med TutAnkhAmons dronning, der tilbeder ham, kister af ibenholt og elfenben, jagtskjolde beklædt med gepardskin, buer og pile, alabaster krukker med kong Tuts mummificerede organer, guld sarkofager - da Howard Carter havde fundet sådanne skatte for en lille kendt drenge-konge, forestil jer, hvad Ramses II´s grav har indeholdt. Kong Tuts inderste kiste af rent guld og og den berømte maske af guld, som alle gerne vil se, er trykt i mange Ægyptiske billedmaterialer.
Museet er blevet en ny pengemaskine for Ægypterne med yderligere en entre for at se de kongelige mumier. Vi måtte være tilfreds med at se dyremumierne - katte, hunde, fugle, geder, Nile Perch (ja, også fisk!) og mest fantastisk var en 7 meter krokodillemumie.
Udstillingerne var på øverste etage opsat efter emne og på underste etage i kronologisk orden uret rundt fra det Gamle Kongerige, til det midterste og sluttende med de Nye og Sidste Kongedømmer. Der var værelser fyldt med kæmpe sarkofager (kister), som hver ville veje en tons, et værelse fyldt med miniaturer, der viste daglig liv i Ægypten, et værelse fuld af falmede gamle papyrusskrifter og værelser fulde af brokker og stykker fra ruiner, statuer, palads gulve - et sted, man kan tilbringe dage med en ordentlig rejse guide.



Khan Al-Khalili

På gaderne af Ægypts største bazar, Khan Al KhaliliEfter et stop på en Ægyptisk parfumefabrik og en frokostpause, kom vi til Khan Al-Khalili, det ældste basar i Ægypten, som går tilbage til 1300-tallet. Gamle tiders købere besøgte Khanen for at kigge på varerne bragt dertil af handelskaravanerne. Vi finder ikke længere slaver, silke, juveler eller diamanter, men træ guitarer, skønne klude tæpper, klæder, t-shirts, papyrustryk, vandpiber, bunker af tøj, aromaen af krydderier breder sig og boder med stakke af rødt, guld og blå pulver og sække med frø og bønner. Kobbersmede udhamrer fade, terriner, kaffekander og enorme halvmåneformede toppe til minareter. Det er et ritual i basarer at tinge om priserne, lokale såvel som gæster - almindeligvis til en tiendedel af den budte pris - har du betalt en tredjedel, har du betalt for meget. Vi havde kun en time til vores rådighed, men mange af boderne var lukkede for siesta og for ramadanen. Ulla og jeg pegede på nogle sække af mangefarvede krydderier. Han ville have 50£ (50 kr.), men efter jeg sagde "da ketir awi" (det koster for meget) og gik, fulgte sælgeren efter os en kilometer mens han reducerede prisen fra 40£ til 30£, 25£, 20£, og efter vi i spøg råbte 10£, tilbød han 15£, 10£ og endelig 5£ før han opgav os. Efter megen tingen lykkedes det os få to udsmykkede parfumeglas flasker for 20£ (20 kr.).



Bedstemor's fødselsdagfest

Bedstemors festIrene og Ole havde sørget for et privat værelse til Bedstemors fødselsdagsfest. Et enkelt langt bord i et værelse i Ægyptisk stil. Sølv fade i to rækker midt på bordet med ild under holdt maden varm.

Vi fik kommen-panneret stegt fisk, kyllinge filleter på Ægyptisk stil, kanel-krydret ravioli, ris, kartoffelmos og steg i pebbersauce, "sang" og brød med Ægyptisk vin og øl til Bedstemor.

Mens børnene legede i et hjørne, var der meget snak bordet rundt, og aftenen sluttede med chokolade og frugt kage pyntet med "Happy Pirthday" (det er ikke en fejl) og vi morede os over os over overfloden af Ægyptiske kager - bagværk, semulje tærte, rosenvands krydrede tærter og tærter, der smagte af flydende honning… Ulla ville gerne have resten af desserten med sig (undtagen den rosenvands krydrede - det var morsomt at se hendes udtryk - rosenvand dufter næsten som parfume). Tjenerne var hele tiden meget opmærksomme, passerede hver andet minut for at opvarte os.

Det bedste var, at Bedstemor blev som to årig, da hun skulle puste lysene på kagerne ud. Som danskerne ville sige, "det var meget hyggeligt!"



Mandag 15. november 2004 (start 7:30)

Fra de grå bygninger og gader I Cairo kørte vi 24 km mod sydøst til Saqqara, skiftende fra ensartet brun til frodige grøne marker med grøntsager og hundrede af dadelpalmer. Det var som en oase, hvor et fint slør gav en uvirkelig følelse af de frodige områder i det gamle Ægypten. Kvinder i hellange sorte "abeeyas" fordelt i markerne, den gamle mand, der vandrede omkring - en stor kontrast til mylderet i Cairos centrum.

Saqqara's Trin Pyramide

Grundlagt som et nekropolis (begravelses by) for det gamle Kongedømme og et af de rigeste arkæologiske områder i Ægypten.

Trin pyramiden er mindre end halv så høj, som den største pyramide ved Giza, men dette monument var en forløber for de glatte pyramider. Tidligere var gravene bygget af soltørrede muddersten, rektangulære byggesten, der dækkede gravstedet. Men arkitekten Imhotep havde Zosers trinpyramide i Sakkaraden lyse ide at bygge med sten og bygge den trinagtige struktur fen gange ovenpå hinanden, og skabte den første pyramide.

Vi kom ind gennem den store sydlige gård - på størelse med en fodboldbane - gennem en koridor af 40 søjler inspireret af bundter af bundne rør. Mens Adam holdt endnu en af sine taler, blev jeg antastet af en klæde og turbanklædt Ægypter, som førte mig op til toppen, hvor jeg fik et godt skud af de fantastiske søjlers top, før jeg blev skældt ud af Adam og tigget for "baksheesh". Jeg var taknemmelig for at blive reddet fra Ægypteren, som ikke ville lade mig gå uden baksheesh, af et par Italienere. Da jeg kom ud fra koridoren blev jeg imidlertid blændet af det hvide sand og den enorme pyramide alene omgivet af sten fra andre ruiner og en meget mindre trekantet høj af sten i baggrunden. Selv om morgenen var køkig, så varmede solen os, mens vi vandrede nord omkring pyramiden.



Memphis

Ramses II ligger på Memphis' lille museetEngang hovedstaden i det gamle Ægypten, uudgravet på grund af landsbyen, bygget over den gamle by, og det hævede grundvandsspejl på grund at Asuan-dæmningen. Der er en lille park med nogle få fund, brokker og stykker, men den mest spændende ting at se er en kolos af Ramses II, der ligger på ryggen og mangler den nederste del af benene. Kolossen ville have været 5 etager høj, hvis den havde været hel. Midt i parken ligger den største alabaststatue, der er fundet - en sphinx på 80 tons - tænk hvilke skatte, der kunne have været fundet, hvis Memphis kunne udgraves, især da denne gamle by lå på halvvejen mellem Øvre og Nedre Ægypten.


Vores sidste stop før frokost var ved en papyrus butik - endnu et sted med kommission til Adam. Bedstemor købte en papyrus med det Ægyptiske alfabet i heroglypher. Nogle af papyrusbillederne kostede 3500£ (3500 kr). Til frokost fik vi et udmærket Ægyptisk måltid ude midt i ingenting. Vi fik glimrende mezza (ægyptiske tapas) af baba ghanoush (ristet aubergine dip), tzatziki (agurke dip), hummus (kikærte dip), fuul (bønner) serveret med friskbagte pitabrød, varme vinblade ruller, lamme kofta og ny grillet kylling med timian. Det var et måltid for konger og det bedste Ægyptiske måltid, vi fik på hele turen.



Pyramider af Giza

De store fantastiske pyramider i Giza. Her ses vi den største pyramid - Cheops/Khufus pyramidFra luften ligger ørkenen og pyramiderne lige op til byen, 16 km fra Cairo.

Jeg husker svagt at blive puklet op ad en overraskende varm skakt, oplyst af en enkelt lyspære, og komme ind i et meget køligt, mørk rum, hvor der stod en enkel stensarkofag; rummet var tomt, men med tilfældige firkantede huller i væggen til mad til livet hinsides.

Jeg var inde i Dronningerummet i den største pyramide og nu 20 år senere kan kun de første 300 gæster daglig komme ind i disse pyramider - for en anseelig entre.


René står næste pyramiden
Den største af de tre, Kheops pyramide, er 146 meter høj, 920 meter i omkreds og består af 2,3 millioner stenblokke! Hver blok var mindst en meter høj, så man kan forestille sig hvor massive disse pyramider var.


Den anden største pyramid - Chephrens pyramid




Den næststørste Khefrens (Kheops søn) pyramide har stadig noget af de glatte skinnende kalkstens dækning, som engang dækkede alle pyramiderne.==>

Den massive solbåd, som engang bragte faraos krop fra Memphis til Giza og de tre mindre Dronninge pyramider står ved foden af den massive Kheops pyramide. Vi havde ikke mulighed for at komme ind i gravkammeret denne gang, men jeg føler mig privilegeret over at jeg var derinde, og stadig har nogle minder fra begivenheden.



Sphinxen

SfinxenPyramiderne rejser sig i baggrunden, mens den sider stille på det varme sand under den bagende sol i 4000 år. Napoleons tropper brugte den som målskive, så næsen og faraos skæg er for længst faldet af og findes i British museum. Grækerne kaldte den "Sphinx", som var basseret på en mærkelig skikkelse med hovedet af et menneske og kroppen af en løve, som ville stoppe enhver rejsende langs vejen med en gåde - hvis gåden ikke blev gættet, blev man måltid for Sphinxen. Trængslen af skarerne omringede Sphinxen og vi kunne kun bevæge os i gåsegang. Gennem tiden ser det ud til, at turisterne må se Sphinxen på længere og længere afstand. For 50 år siden kunne Bedstefar røre ved Sphinxen og også klatre op på toppen af pyramiden; for 20 år siden var Sphinxen hegnet inde med et lille trådhegn, men jeg kunne stå tæt ved den; nu ligger den i et stort hul, hvor besøgende kun kan se den tæt på gennem zoomen på deres kameraer. 4 tusind år senere bjergtager den stadig os alle.



Tirsdag 16. november 2004 (start 2:30)

Ja, du læste rigtig - vi ventede alle I receptionen kl. 2.30. I aftes diskede Bedstemors børnebørn op med Spansk-Ægyptisk-Italiensk middag til hele familien. Dette fulgtes op af en Familien i en larm fra tamboriner, obo og trommer, der spillede til forlovelsesfest for et Ægyptisk par I receptionen.

Denne morgen fløj vi til Asuan for at gå ombord til et Nilkryds på 4 dage op til Luxor. Da vi ankom, tog vi på en "felucca" (nilbåd) tur på Nilen med en fantastisk panorama til "Tomb of Nobles" (de overordnedes grave). Da vi kom tilbage fik vi vores værelser på en fire etages krydstogt skib, der havde motionsrum, svømmebassin og soldæk øverst oppe. Selv fra vores værelser i bunden, havde vi en fantastisk udsigt til de små moskelignende bygninger på toppen af de store sandbjerge med små huler.

Om aftenen havde vi mulighed for at besøge byens lille souq (locale bazaar), hvor de solgte t-shirts, papyrusbilleder, dynger af safran og tørret vellugtende lotusblomster, brun, rød, gul og indigo bjerge af duftende krydderier - alt noget som nogle af os tingede om - det dyreste køb var 25£ for papyrus billede og billigst 15£ for en broderet t-shirt med hieroglyffer. Sidst brugte vi 5£ til en hestevogn tilbage til skibet.

Den anden papyrus har jeg købt fra bazaren



Onsdag 17. november 2004 (start 7:30)

Det ser ud til, at nogle I familien har pådraget sig en maveonde. Vi andre undgik uvasket frugt, frisk salat, rå grøntsager og drinks med vand fra vandhane. Dette forhindrede os imidlertid ikke i at tage på sightseing.

Den ufærdige Obelisk

Hvis denne obelisk var blevet færdig, ville det have været den højeste og tungeste nogensinde fremstillet på 142 meter. Den ligger i et granitstenbrud, færdighugget på tre sider, men opgivet da en revne viste sig i stenen. Det er næsten umulig at forestille sig, hvordan de gamle ægyptere kunne flytte selv en enkelt sten fra dette stenbrud, da dette sted er ganske mange mile fra alle monumenterne, som er færdigfremstillet. Uheldigt for Ægypten er de fleste obelisker blevet spredt til andre lande - til Italien, England, Frankrig og selv Argentina - af fremmede arkæologer gennem de sidste århundreder. Mange af os havde ikke tid til at se hele obelisken før Adam ringede med sin klokke, som han medbragte (for at genere os, tror jeg).

Den ufuldendte ObeliskDe meste familier kom ikke så langt til her



Den Høje Dæmning

I århundreder har Nilen styret Ægypternes liv - hvad enten der var oversvømmelse eller for lidt vand, var det skæbnesvangert for folket, hvis liv afhang af denne store vandkilde. Da Asuandæmningen blev bygget mistede nogle af landsbyerne i det sydlige deres vandforsyninger.

For 30 år siden blev den nye Høje Dæmning bygget, hvilket resulterede i den menneskeskabte Nasser sø mod syd. ==>

Det betød, at mange mennesker måtte flyttes, da landsbyerne og bopladserne blev oversvømmet, ligesom også nogle af de gamle Ægyptiske monumenter som Philae templet.


Aswan dæmningPå sit højeste er den Høje Dæmning 111 m, 3,8 km lang og 980 m bred ved foden.

Der er blevet brugt tre gange så mange sten, som der var i Kheops pyramiden til bygningen af dæmningen.

Da dæmningen er militært område, må man ikke bruge videokamera - hvis der blev rettet et angreb på dæmningen kunne meget af Ægypten blive oversvømmet, hvilket ville være en katastrofe for landet.


Efter kun 10 minutter "ringede" Adam os tilbage til bussen igen.



Philae templet

Vi sejler til Philae templetEfter den første Asuan dæmning blev bygget, var Philae templet oversvømmet 6 måneder om året, og turisterne måtte se templet gennem Philae søens mudrede vand. Da den Høje Dæmning blev bygget, truede det med at oversvømme templet for evigt. Templet blev da flyttet sten for sten til en ø med et lignende landskab. Philae er speciel i, at den kun kan nås med båd og at solnedgangen giver et spektakulært bagtæppe. Templet, som er bygget til Isis (gudinden for kvinder, sexualitet og renhed), var en af de sidste hedenske udsteder og på grund af Isis popularitet, blev det også brugt af de tidlige Kristne. Templets vægge og mange af søjlerne var fra top til fod fyldt med hieroglyffer og billeder af Isis - mange af billedernes ansigter var ødelagt af de tidlige Kristne, som anså de gamle Ægyptiske guder for hedenske. Jeg havde en fantastisk eftermiddag med at vandre ind og ud af gennem alle krogene og sprækkerne - besøge Fødselshuset, Nilometeret, Faraos sengested og meget mere og til stor morskab for familien, var jeg den sidste til at møde op.



Kom Ombo templet i aftenKom Ombo

Skibet sejlede fra Asuan kl. 15.45 efter en eftermiddag tilbragt med solbadning og øldrikning (typisk dansk med solbadning og øl). Vi sejlede 48 km. nord for Asuan til Kom Ombo - den gamle by med tilbedelsen af krokodilleguden Sobek. Den gamle by er for længst forsvunden og krokodillernes eksistens på de nærliggende sandbanker er blevet jagtet til udryddelse.

I solnedgangen besøgte vi Kom Ombo templet, opført til både krokodilleguden Sobek og Horus, den falkehovede himmelgud og Isis søn. Selvom vi ikke havde tiden til at fordybe os i 2 crocodil mumie på Kom Ombo templedette tempen, var det både imponerende og sælsomt med store projektører, der belyste templet. Der var en brønd med vand og en afsats halvvejs nede, hvor krokodiller gennem en gang blev lokket ind fra Nilen med menneskekød, og den største krokodille blev fanget og mumificeret som et offer til Sobek. Ved kapellet for Hathor (Horus hustru) var der en Amerikaner, der udbrød "Gud, jeg troede jeg skulle se krokodillestatuer!" - latter - Kapellet indeholdt to krokodillemumier fundet i templet.

Vi returnerede til et lille cocktail party før middagen, givet af skibet for at introducere de ansvarlige for personalet og for at gøre vores tur behagelig.



Tirsdag 18. november 2004 (start 7.00)

Gennem natten sejlede vi fra Kom Ombo til Edfu, et lille regionalt center for sukkerrørshandlen, besøgte Horus templet og sejlede videre til broen over Nilen og slusesystemet ved Esna.

Horus templet

Den smukke Horus temple i EdfuDette er det mest komplette tempel i Ægypten, et Græsk-Romansk tempel, helt bygget efter gamle Ægyptiske arkitektoniske principper. Vi besøger Edfu for at se, hvordan alle andre templer kunne have set ud i deres originale form. Vi var benovet over indgangspartiet med pylonernes massive mure med tydelige spejlvendte relieffer af Horus og af Farao, der holder sine fjender i håret for at henrette disse. Templet er bygget af Kleopatras far omkring 50 år før Kristus. Omkring pladsen foran dette velbevarede tempel, kan vi se huse bygget af muddersten (mudder fra Nilen blandet med strå og soltørrede) på toppen af bakkerne omkring templet. Templet var tidligere begravet helt op til taget med en landsby opført ovenpå. Mange af templets relieffer viser den voldsomme kamp mellem Horus og hans bror Seth.Vi gik ned i et lille Nilometer - en mørk, snæver tunnel, der stank af urin, som engang blev brugt til at måle Nilens vandstand. Igen var jeg den sidste (kun et par minutter for sent) til store klapsalver fra alle (og et stikkende blik fra Adam).



Fra vort skib på NilenTilbage på skibet til afgang kl. 9.00, hvor vi afsejler mod Esna, 48 km syd for Luxor. Mens familien trængte sig sammen på soldækket, sad jeg i solen på skibets fordæk i fred og ro. Det var rigtig skønt at sidde på et skib - ikke for lille eller for stor - og skue det skiftende sceneri på begge bredder, store palmelunde og frodige grønne marker passerede forbi, et rygende flimmer, skibet, der bevæger sig med fredfyldte 16 km/t og passerer utrolige bjerge af sand og sten. Ole gør mig selskab for en snak - han og Irene flytter til Grønland på tirsdag. Senere på formiddagen sluttede jeg mig til René og Ulla ved poolen, der sludrede om Bedstefar og familie sammenligningerne, mens de betragtede Vinnies børn og Sebastian plaske rundt i pølen, og Lonnie, Sarah og Berit afklædt til et minimum for at få lidt farve.



En ægyptisk mand ryger vand pibeVi ankom til Esna og brugte et par timer til at strække benene efter en formiddag at have dovnet omkring pølen. Jeg kløede efter at spadsere i Esna, væk fra turister og se, hvordan de lokale boede. René og jeg gik efter de stille gader og undgik de travle gader omkring souqen. Vi blev fulgt af en flok børn i lange grå eller hvide klæder, der førte og irriterede os. De fleste af de snævre gader var ubelagte, nogle var mudrede og lugtede af gødning. Magre, skelletagtige æsler stod forspændt arbejdsvogne, mange sky piger vinkede fra deres mørke døråbninger eller fra 1.sals vinduer, mens små drenge kom ud for at sige hello og kredse omkring os. De fleste huse var simple af lermursten og med små tilskoddede vinduer for at holde varmen ude.Nogle havde fantastiske udskårne trædøre, efterladenskaber fra kolonitiden. Tilfældige blikke ind gennem døråbningerne afslørede tomme mudderklinede rum, da de fleste mennesker boede på første sal. Ind imellem råbte René "imshee!" (forsvind), når børnene blev for støjende og nærgående, trak os i armene og smed småsten efter os. Da jeg snublede over en pibende sort og hvid sygelig hvalp svøbt i brun papir, som var sparket til side - rakte jeg næsten ud efter den, hvis ikke René havde stoppet mig. Det var klogt endog ikke at komme i kontakt med børnene, som var støvede og klædt i de lange Ægyptiske dragter. Det var en befrielse, da de til sidst forlod os, selv om vi vidste de gemte sig i smøgene og iagttog os skride gennem gaderne. Der var guldsmedier glimrende af smykke ringe, øreringe og halskæder; skræddere, der stadig syede i hånden sidende på trappetrinene til deres butikker; kaffehuse fyldt kun med mænd, der røg på deres vandpiber - deres øjne fulgte os ned ad gaden. Vi havde siddet forskellige steder så lang tid, at det var godt at komme væk.

Gennem slusen

Vi sejlede kl. 15.00 og samledes med andre skibe som vores ved en bro lige nord for Esna. Hver fjerde time åbner broen i en time for skibene og bilerne kunne i stedet tage en lille færge over Nilen. Til aften har skibet dækket op til en speciel Ægyptisk "Orientalsk" middag, hvor gæsterne kunne klæde sig i ægyptiske dragter. Det var et festmåltid med fladbrød, baba ghanoush, varme fyldte zucchini og peberfrugt, varme pølseruller, kikærter, linser, fisk, traditionel ret af okra (ligner grøn chili, men er ikke stærk), pyntet og risfyldt hel lam med foliedækket hoved med små magre oberginer som ører sat op på et sølvfad. Som afslutning på det hele var der et bord med ægyptiske desserter - semulje tærte, mandel-mælk agar (gelé) og små tærter med honningsmag. Mellem 22 0g 23 samledes vi alle for at se slusningen.

Ved slusning føres skibet fra et niveau til et andet niveau, som regel ved en dæmning. To krydstogtskibe sejlede ind i slusen, hvorefter portene lukkedes efter os. Vandet ledtes ud af slusen og skibene blev sænket næsten 10 meter ned, hvorefter portene foran skibene åbnedes, og vi sejlede videre. Slusningen tog ca. en time, selv om ventetiden varede nogle timer for at komme til. Det var værd at se, selv om vi skulle starte tidlig næste morgen. Det mest fantastiske var at se den ekspertise skibet førtes gennem den snævre sluse med næsten ingen plads til begge sider.



Fredag 19 November 2004 (start 7.00)

Gennem natten sejlede vi fra Esna til Luxor, vores sidste havn, hvortil vi kom ca. kl. 2. Vi blev effektivt vækket og kunne høre telefonvækningen omkring på de værelser, som skulle ud på en tidlig tur. Vi havde en lang dag for os, hvor vi skulle besøge fire steder.

Kongernes dal

Bygmestrene af de store pyramider opdagede, at skjulte indgange og falske skakter ikke beskyttede deres døde faraoer eller rigdommene, der var med i gravene, for gravrøvere, så fra det 18. dynasti startede de gamle ægyptere med at grave i undergrunden. Rullende bakker og dale af sand, grus og solid sandsten - det er forbavsende at tænke sig, at de gamle Ægyptere var i stand til at begrave over 300 faraoer hvoraf kun 62 er fundet (den sidste var TutAnkhAmun).


Kongernes Dal

Bjerget, under hvilket mange af gravene er fundet, har en pyramidelignende fason.



Ramses V/VI grave


Vores billetter gav os ret til kun at besøge tre grave og kun en håndfuld var åbne på dagen med lange køer ved alle.

Vi besøgte gravene for Ramsesene III, IX og V/VI - alle relative små grave, nogle delvis udgravede, andre meget skadede af fugtighed fra de mange turister og fra svedige fingre.



Det smukke loft af Ramses V/VI graveDer var en mængde af hieroglyffer og billeder af faroerne, hvordan de behandlede deres undersåtter, selv lofterne var smukt udsmykket med blå himmel, tusinder af stjerner og himmel gudindens hoved. Ramses III´s grav var som en billedbog over "Bedre Huse og Haver" med billeder af hundrede af krukker, møbler og madkunst. I Ramses V/VI's grav var der en kæmpe revnet Faraoformet sarkofag uhyggelig illumineret med sølvagtig lys - Ramses VI delte usædvanligt graven med sin forgænger og broder. Det er rugtig forbavsende, at sådanne billeder har overlevet tusinder af år, gemt bort i mørke tørre grave, som hurtig nedbrydes, efter at de er blevet udgravet.



Memnon kolosserne

Colossi af MemnonLige efter Kongernes Dal stoppede vi for at se Memnon kolosserne - to 18 meter høje figurer af Amenhotep III, som stod foran hvad men mener var Ægyptens største tempel, endnu større end det eksisterende Karnak tempel. Hver af statuerne er hugget ud af en hel sten, engang berømte for klokkelignende toner, der opstod fra statuerne ved solopgang. Grækerne troede disse lyde blev lavet af den udødelige Memnon, der hilste på sin moder. Efter at en Romersk hersker foretog restaurationer på kolosserne i 170 efter kristus, forsvandt lydene.

Til vores morskab gjorde Adam endnu et "kommisions stop" ved en alabaster butik. Han kunne ikke forstå, hvorfor vi brød ud i latter. I stedet for at boycotte turen, skyndte vi os alle ind for at få en kop gratis myntete (som ikke havde noget med myntete at gøre). René førte an i et race med Sebastian og Vinnies drenge med det glatte alabastergulv som glidebane. I den anden ende blev Ulla præsenteret for en lille 10000£ alabaster flodhest, som hun i sjov sagde ja til, hvorefter butiksassistenten gik for at sætte den til side.



Hatshepsut templet

Dronning Hatshepsuts terrassetempelI nærheden af Kongernes Dal ligger dette tempel for den eneste kvindelige Farao, der har regeret Ægypten. På grund af et forkvaklet arbejde af et rent Ægyptisk arkæologisk hold, blev templets ruiner genrejst til at indeholde et busdepot, resulterende i at meget af de originale kunstværker blev overmalet eller ødelagt. Efterfølgeren til Hatshepsuts bror/mand var stedsønnen Tuthmose III, som måtte vente 20 år på sin trone, hvorfor Hatshepsut ikke blev balsameret, da hun døde, og hendes tempel blev ødelagt som straf. Templet stod på stedet for et Koptisk kloster og fantastiske sandstensklipper. Der er måske ikke meget af templet at se, men synet tæt på, fra stor afstand og endog fra himlen gør absolut turen værd.

Så fik vi frokost og et lille hvil. Jeg blev overrasket over, at et humoristisk medlem af rengøringspersonalet havde sat håndklæder, tæppe og pude op i min seng, så det lignede en mand og hans slange. Jeg troede René havde lavet grin med mig, til jeg fandt ud af, at noget lignende var lavet i andre familiemedlemmers værelser!



134 kæmpe-søjler af Karnak temple - verdens største tempelkompleksKarnak Luxor templer

Karnak var kendt som "Ipet-Isyt" - det mest perfekte af stederne.

Meget af det ligger I ruiner, men er muligvis det største tempelkompleks bygget nogensinde og skabt over 1500 år af efterfølgende generationer af Faraoer.

Det var boplads for Faroer, stedet for gudedyrkelse, rigt skattekammer og administrationscenter med tusinder ansat.

Karnak er berømt for dets gigantiske søjler - 134 på 15 meters højde, 12 i midten på 21 meter. Der skal seks voksne til at favne omkring en søjle.

Engang stod der statuer af Faraoer mellem søjlerne og hele stemningen ville have været skræmmende, som at passere gennem en hal af kæmpe guder.


Underskrift af Ramses II









<== Ramses II var ansvarlig for meget af restaureringen af templet, og hans signatur er hugget dybt ind i flere områder, så ingen anden Farao kunne tage æren.



Den højste obelisk i Ægypt - Hatshepsuts Oberlisk i Karnak tempel



Forbi de kæmpe søjler stod den højeste eksisterende obelisk I Ægypten, næsten 30 meter høj. Selvom den er lavet af et stykke granit, ser Hatsheosuts obelisk ud, som om den er lavet af to forskellige sten, da den nederste del i mange år var dækket til af Tuthmosis III i hans vrede over stedmoderens tilranelse af tronen. Der var engang 17 obeliske, men disse er nu spredt over hele verden.

Jo længere vi kommer ind i tempelområdet, jo ældre er templet og ligger i ruiner, så da vi når den anden ende, ligger alt i ruiner.


Smukke vægge i Karnak tempel

Det mest skønne syn for mig I templet var billedet af dronningen, der omfavner sin Farao.

Det blev betragtet som tabu at vise billeder med en sådan affekt, så billedet var i mange år dækket af en guldplade.


Tæt ved den hellige sø - et bassin beregnet til præsternes renselse - stor en kæmpe skarabel. Adam fortalte, at vi skulle gå syv gange rundt om den, mod uret, og vi ville få vort ønske opfyldt. Det ville have været ret komisk at se en stor skare af folk vandre omkring skarabellen.

Efter 1½ time måtte vi videre… til endnu en kommisionsbutik - en bomuldsbutik med t-shirts med fabrikstryk, der kostede fem så meget, som jeg havde købt broderede t-shirts for.


Luxor tempel







Til sidst på vores tur: Luxor templet==>

Der var en avenue af Sphinxer, som engang forbandt Karnak templet med Luxor templet med 2½ km.

Engang i Faraoernes tid lå Luxor templet i hjertet af den gamle hovedstad Thebes og var velbevaret fordi den engang var begravet under landsbyen Luxor og endog i det 13. årh. havde en moske opført indenfor dens mure - hvilket indbyggerne kræver bevaret under restaureringen af templet.

Templet synes ikke oversvømmet med turister og i det forsvindende lys fra solnedgangen lægger templet et spøgelsesagtigt men flot skygge over byen.


En Efter turen tog resten af familien på hestevognstur tilbage til skibet, mens vores lille familie besluttede at gå gennem byen - en kort tur langs Nilen. Som i Esra var vi interesserede i at gå gennem gaderne, tage video og fotos og se, hvordan folk levede - gamle mænd ryger vandpibe, skrædere syer dragter, en mand vasker kopper i en kaffeshop, en åben slagter med kroppe hængende ved fortovet, små børn hviner for at blive fotograferet, kvinder klædt fra top til tå i sort, børn glad vinkende fra alle hjørner - disse mennesker smilede mere og syntes venligere - og ingen spurgte efter bakshees (drikkepenge), og en skarp kontrast til Esna. Vi stoppede for at få en sodavand på tagterrassen af en hotel og betragtede endnu en fantastisk solnedgang over Luxor.







En kobbersmedEn tømmer
En ægyptisk kvinde bærer noget på hendes hovedEn skrædderEn sky dreng
En mand laver maden ægyptisk caféAnden mand ryger vand
Venter på gadenAnden ægyptiske café / restaurant

en Sko magerTømmerEn slagter



en Hvivlende danserEfter vores sidste middag blev vi underholdt af en ung kedelig mavedanserinde og, hvad jeg har ventet på at se, en "Hvirvlende Dervish" - en fremvisning af Sufi dans.

Sufism, en halv-mystisk gren af Islam, med en uortodoks vej til bøn, det vil sige at danse og opnå en trancelignende forening med Gud.

Tilskyndet af takten fra trommer, strenge og fløjter, spinner danseren rundt i et slør of flerfarvet skørt - rød, gul og blå - indtil han lignede en snurretop.







Photo Courtesy of Tour Egypt Photos








Lørdag 20 November 2004 (start 4:45)

De fleste af familien nød krydstogtet og stederne de så. De var ikke særlig glade ved planlægningen af turen med latterlige tidlige morgenstarter, nogle dage sammenpressede og andre med næsten intet. Men mest af alt var mange af familien utilfredse med Adam - vi klagede på vore spørgeskemaer og Ulla gav AB-Travel repræsentanten en opsang om, hvor ubehagelig Adam havde været, hvor intetsigende hans høj-accenterede sprog havde været, han kørte på nogle af os, stirrede på børnene for at sludre bag i bussen, han undgik spørgsmål og skældte på alle, der afbrød ham med et spørgsmål. Værst var alle de unødvendige "kommissions baserede" stop, som tog tid fra vores seværdigheds besøg. Han var en typisk Ægypter, som kunne have gjort vores tur meget mere lykkelig.

Fra en tidelig flyvetur til Cairo, en galehus med vores bagage, en tretimers ventetid I en kaffeshop på et hotel tæt ved, til en 4½ timers flyvetur tilbage til København, var klokken 17, da vi fik vores bagage og tog en sidste afsked med alle medlemmer af familien. På trods af en start kl. 4.45 tog det os en hel dag at komme hjem.

Der er en vis portion tristhed at det måske er sidste gang familien er samlet, da Bedstemor jo bliver ældre. René har været med på måske ti samlinger, planlagt af Bedstemors børn, men betalt af Bedsteforældrene - som en arv til familien. Jeg har været heldig og privilegeret at blive inviteret med på en af disse familiesamlinger - fire generationer i alt. Det gav mig lov til at besøge en anden eksotisk del af verden og at lære at kende denne meget specielle Matriark.

BEDSTEMOR på Karnak tempel

§ Fin §




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Fotografier Oversættelse ©Copyright Freddy Pallesen 2000 ~ 2005
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Created: 13Dec 2004Sidst update: 13-Dec-2004

14. November 2004 11:03
by Rene Pallesen
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Egypt - Pallesen Family Holiday 2004

14. November 2004 11:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

egypt pallesen family holiday 2004
Perfect Moments Photography | A Rene Pallesen Journal

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11. March 2018 22:03
by Rene Pallesen
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Monks - Laos

11. March 2018 22:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

Religion is an integral part of Laos society where the majority are Budhists.
Religion is an integral part of Laos society where the majority are Budhists.



The monks dressed in orange and red ropes are still visible everywhere and it is largely seen as becoming a novice (junior monk) is seen as an opportunity to get an education and support your family if you come from a poor rural area.


 


The high influx of tourists, especially to Luang Prabang is therefore a bit of a win-win situation for everyone. The tourists support the temples in the area by paying their admission fees to visit and on both my trips I have found that the monks are keen to have a conversation as it is a way of practicing their language skills.

In Luang Prabang the monks walk in procession every morning to collect rice from worshipper along the roads. Before sunrise there are hundreds of monks walking the streets in every direction. There is an equal horde of tourists trying to take photos of these monks and equally tourists handing out (sometimes dubious) rice to them.



There are posters around the city encouraging being there and seeing the monks as well as providing some guidelines such as keeping a certain distance, not using flash photography and if you hand out rice then where to get it from. Most of it common sense really, so it was sad to see how some would be blocking the paths and sticking their camera phones with flashes into the monks faces.





Sacha and I went there a couple of mornings, but because of the time of the year everything was dark and because the monks move quite fast through the streets it was a challenge getting good shots.



One afternoon we walked past a temple and a group of monks were in progress of cutting down a large tree and afterwards trimming off the branches. They were going to use some of the tree trunk for traditional drums and the rest for ornamental purposes inside the temple.







In the late afternoons you would hear them chanting in the small rooms of meditations, chanting and prayer. These are often smaller places of worship and not part of the main temples which are used for more ceremonial purposes.
One evening I heard such chanting and went to investigate and found these monks. Definitely one of my favourite moments in Luang Prabang.



A common assumption and misconception is that the monks live by an ancient code with a simple life, so it is quite interesting to see that even they have adopted modern technology with smart phones and cameras.



11. February 2018 22:03
by Rene Pallesen
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Locals transport - Laos

11. February 2018 22:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

The locals are still relying on motorbikes to get around. They are far cheaper and more convenient i
The locals are still relying on motorbikes to get around. They are far cheaper and more convenient in the towns. It is even possible to fit an entire family onto a single motorbike.







Younger kids and high schoolers ride their push bikes for transport.



Although Aiden and the other kids definitely preferred the motor bikes.



Nothing too flash for weddings - a normal new car will suffice. If you notice the sign on the door, then I am not sure if the bride was expecting to come home to 'Meat & Sausage'.



There are also some vintage cars around which have survived since colonial times - like this 1952 Citroen.

10. February 2018 07:03
by Rene Pallesen
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Bowling - Laos

10. February 2018 07:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

On the last day in Luang Prabang we went to the local ten pin bowling alley.We had heard and read th
On the last day in Luang Prabang we went to the local ten pin bowling alley.

We had heard and read that this is the place where things are happening in Laos. When we got there the place was totally deserted apart from a few staff members.

We did play bowling and it is a bit surreal to play by ourselves in this fairly modern centre in Laos.



They didn't have any support rails for the kids, but Aiden especially did really well and the kids managed to beat Kim on points.



9. February 2018 07:03
by Rene Pallesen
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Water fall - Laos

9. February 2018 07:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

Just outside Luang Prabang there is this amazing waterfall cascading down a limestone creek.We decid
Just outside Luang Prabang there is this amazing waterfall cascading down a limestone creek.

We decided to get up early to go a take photos, so that we could be there early before all the crowds arrived.





















At the entrance to the park there is also a Bear rehabilitation centre. They rescue bears from captivity and keep them until it is safe to release them back into the wild (if ever). The bears have a big area and seem to love climbing and sleep in the hammocks provided.



8. February 2018 22:03
by Rene Pallesen
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The kids and families of Laos

8. February 2018 22:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

What I especially remember from my last trip to Laos was the kids. One of my most cherished photos i
What I especially remember from my last trip to Laos was the kids. One of my most cherished photos is one of two little girls holding a bouquet of flowers that I took 20 years ago (it is on this blog if you look for it through the search function).

The children are still there. They are still very shy, dirty and smiling.











They make up their own games such as these kids at a school playing marbles with tamarind seeds.







These kids were playing a game where the kid under the table had to poke the feet of the kids above the table.



And some things never change, kids teasing each other.





The girls in the school yard 'hang out'.



Visiting a local school was great for our kids to get a glimpse of how other kids live.







Along the road we stopped and a family was outside with the mother breastfeeding her son in their outdoor living room. This is where everything happened such as the cooking, washing, feeding etc.





The chicken were running around freely



Here is a rare shot that Kim took with my camera in it.



It is a very family oriented life they live








8. February 2018 22:03
by Rene Pallesen
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Our kids - Laos

8. February 2018 22:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

Our kids had a blast of a time in Laos. They loved each other company (for the most part) and someti
Our kids had a blast of a time in Laos. They loved each other company (for the most part) and sometime looked like real little travellers.








They were respectful at the temples and even offered a prayer.





At other times they behaved like animals and should be lock away in a cage.





But for the most part they liked exploring things that us adults wouldn't see such as this crater from a crash landed U.F.O.

7. February 2018 21:03
by Rene Pallesen
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Catching local transport - Laos

7. February 2018 21:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

For getting around the towns in Laos we mainly used Tuk-Tuks. These are small motorbike powered mini

For getting around the towns in Laos we mainly used Tuk-Tuks. These are small motorbike powered minibuses and the experience can be very mixed. Most of them are generally good, but some have bad brakes have a plume of smelly two stroke engine smoke trailing behind them. We could easily fit our two families into one and I'd joke that there would even be room for another couple of adults.



The kids loved the tuk-tuks and have the fresh air blowing in their hair while riding.



The only downside is that you'd never quite know what the fare would be until you started bargaining and from town to town the fares seemed to be very different. Even though I believe I am reasonable proficient at bargaining, I'm still confident that we paid more that the locals would be paying for the same trips.











For the longer trips we would catch either local buses (mini vans) or in some instances it was worthwhile us hiring a private bus as we were enough people to fill it.

From Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang we hired a private van taking us across the mountain pass at Kasi. Last time I went through here it was in an open bus and at the pass it was raining and really cold. This time round we had a beautiful clear day with a great view of the valley below from the top.





The week before they had a lot of rain and a landslide had taken out large parts of the last section of road (I read in the local newspaper a few days earlier that the road was closed). Our little van was struggling getting enough grip and our driver had to reverse to get enough of a run-up in the next attempt to make it through the steep and muddy section.

The larger trucks were really struggling getting through.



6. February 2018 16:03
by Rene Pallesen
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Morning Markets - Laos

6. February 2018 16:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

The morning markets are interesting. This is where the locals still go to buy their fresh produce an
The morning markets are interesting. This is where the locals still go to buy their fresh produce and all kinds of specialties are being sold here. It would be easy to go here and get the ingredients for some really delicious food.

There are also some unusual things that we don't see in our western kitchens. such as:

Dried Squids:



Fresh fish - of cause, but this have sharp teeth.


A protein and herb table that would make most chefs (and diners) salivate:






The Chillies in Lao are more hot than in Thailand - We loved the heat.


A pig:


River crabs:


Beetles:


Dried rats:




Caterpillar - these are yummi when fried:


Frogs:

River snails:


Dried squid, shrimps and fish:






5. February 2018 16:03
by Rene Pallesen
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Silk - Laos

5. February 2018 16:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

They still manufacture silk they way they used to. It was interesting for the kids to see the proces
They still manufacture silk they way they used to. It was interesting for the kids to see the process from small caterpillar eggs that hatch to worms to the production of the silk itself.






I had always wondered where the colour blue (Indigo) came from. I knew it used to come from a seashell, but I was fairly certain that this wouldn't be the case here. It turns out that they use a special leaf from a plant that when mixed with water and left fermenting/oxidising turns into a blue dye.





They also use plants for most of the other colours.





After they spin the thread they use traditional weaves to make it into pieces of garment. These days the silk garments are fairly expensive - hundreds of dollars, but it used to be really cheap.

5. February 2018 16:03
by Rene Pallesen
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Bamboo Bridges - Laos

5. February 2018 16:03 by Rene Pallesen | 0 Comments

During the dry season the people of Luang Prabang builds traditional bamboo bridges across the small
During the dry season the people of Luang Prabang builds traditional bamboo bridges across the smaller river. This saves them a lot of time (and cost) to cross directly into the centre of town rather than a long detour to the other larger bridges.

It also earns them a small income to charge foreigners a small fee to cross the bridges.